Tag: Nord-Pas de Calais

Nord-Pas de Calais, deux

Bienvenue chez les ch’tis!

What’s that? Glad you asked, because today our mission to entertain and inform est trės facile. Merci beaucoup les gens du nord !

This week’s video.

Before beginning this project, we were aware that France had some minority languages – not only languages of immigrants, but regional tongues such as Breton and Occitan. However, even linguistics-obsessed Leah had not heard of ch’tis. Is it a language or a dialect? The jury leans towards dialect, although a French acquaintance told us when she visits the ch’tis area, she can’t understand a word.

We are fortunate to have an excellent film that explains the culture of Nord-Pas de Calais. Bienvenue chez les ch’tis, (English title: Welcome to the Sticks), is the most successful film ever at the box office in France yet nearly unknown in the United States. It is available on DVD and some streaming sources. We understand that Americans don’t like to watch movies with subtitles, but really, make an exception for this one. It’s hilarious, charming and informative. We loved it!

If you don’t want to take our word for it, perhaps this review will persuade.

We also recommend Norman’s video debunking the stereotypes of his people. (Be prepared to read very fast.)

Now, read on for more about the culture of Nord-Pas de Calais.

As noted in part one, the history of Nord-Pas de Calais is characterized by war. That may be true of Europe – and sadly, the world – in general. We’ll assume readers who are interested in the maneuverings of armies know where to find that information, so we’ll focus on the peaceful activities here.

Industry has been the cornerstone of the economy, although it has declined in this densely populated region since the 1950s. The area was once the leading coal producing region in France; Emile Zola’s novel Germinal was set here. Coal mining no longer exists in France, and automobile manufacturing now is the primary heavy industry in Nord-Pas de Calais.

The main square in Lille. Velvet [CC BY-SA 3.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0)], from Wikimedia Commons

The region’s largest city and administrative center is Lille, birthplace of Charles de Gaulle. Roubaix, Tourcoing, Calais and Dunkerque (Dunkirk) are other major cities. The Channel Tunnel and the high-speed train to Paris brings traffic to the area.

In Calais, be sure to check out a famous Rodin sculpture:

Burghers of Calais, Auguste Rodin [CC BY-SA 3.0 (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/)]

Among the 50 national museums in the region is the Museum of Lace and Fashion, paying homage to the area’s history as a textile powerhouse, and the Musée des Beaux-Arts de Valenciennes.

Outdoor enthusiasts can enjoy lovely beaches on the English channel and cycling the famous cobblestones of the Paris-Roubaix.

We’ve been so enchanted by le nord that we’re reluctant to move on, but a schedule is a schedule. Join us next week as we dip slightly south to Picardie.

Nord-Pas de Calais

For centuries, English travelers have entered France at the port of Calais. This region – the first in our tour de France -is known as Nord-Pas de Calais, although since 2016 has been part of the new administrative region of Hauts-de-France.

Historically and culturally, this area has been part of the low countries that include Belgium (its neighbor to the west) and The Netherlands. Many of the iconic foods and beverages here are claimed as Belgian or Dutch. Indeed, the stew that is perhaps the most famous dish of the region -Flemish Carbonade or Carbonnade à la flamande, which is first up in our culinary tour – notes its origin in the name.

Due to its strategic location, the region has known war and more war throughout its history. You may have seen the 2017 film Dunkirk or read the book on which it was based. But since those events in World War II, things have settled down and the inhabitants have been left in peace to fish, farm, manufacture autos and sell petrol to chunnel travelers.

We’ll explore the culture, people and attractions in the next post. For now, let’s get to the food.

I wish I could’ve made the famous tarte aux maroilles (or flamiche au maroilles) and washed it down with a beer from the region, but I couldn’t find either from my local purveyors. But I was able to find the infamous mimolette cheese, which is apparently legal in the U.S. again.

Mimolette cheese
Faluche

And for bread, these little buns called faluche. I altered this recipe slightly by substituting a tiny bit of buckwheat flour for the all-purpose to make it a little less white.

For beer, I skipped across the border for a Belgian red ale.

Our main dish was the iconic stew, and it received such rave reviews that I think I’ll be making it again.

Check out our YouTube channel for a video of this week’s project.

Flemish Carbonade

recipe adapted from Let’s Eat France

  • 2.25 lbs beef stew meat, sliced thinly
  • 1 tbsp neutral oil (I used safflower)
  • 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
  • 4 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
  • 1 tbsp butter
  • 1 bunch mixed herbs, finely chopped
  • 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, celery stalk)
  • 1 slice spiced bread or gingerbread
  • 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
  • 1 tbsp turbinado sugar
  • 1 2/3 cup red ale
  • salt and pepper
  • boiling water
  • 1 tsp capers

Preheat the oven to 300F. Heat the oil in an ovenproof skillet or flameproof casserole, add the beef and brown on both sides, cooking in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan. Sprinkle with the flour, stir to coat and set aside. Melt the butter in a skillet and cook the onions over low heat for about 10 minutes. In a baking dish, place a layer of the cooked meat, top with a layer of cooked onions, then a layer of herbs, and repeat. Place the bouquet garni on top, crumble the bread over the top, sprinkle with the vinegar and the sugar. Add the red ale, season with salt and pepper, and fill the dish with boiling water to the level of the ingredients. Cover and cook in the oven for 3 to 4 hours. Remove the bouquet garni. Distribute the capers over the top and serve.