Montpellier, where we’re residing for a month, is a lovely Mediterranean city, but it is not directly on the sea. While it’s easy enough to get to the beach by public transport, and we’ve done that, yesterday we decided to go a little farther afield and take the train to the port city of Sète.
Known as “the Venice of France” because of its network of canals, Sète is a fishing village with a tourism side hustle. The coastline is mostly rocky, so it wouldn’t be a first choice for long beach walks or swims. But if dramatic Mediterranean views and fresh seafood is what you’re after, Sète delivers.
From Montpellier, the train ride is about 18 minutes, passing through marshlands and a few vineyards. After arriving at le gare Sète, a short walk across a couple of bridges brings visitors to canal-side streets lined with restaurants offering tempting menus of the bounty of the sea.
Probably the most popular option at a waterside eatery is moules frites–a big pot of steamed mussels with fries. The going rate is about 14 euros. Many restaurants also offered a “snack” of six oysters and a glass of wine for 10 euros. Ah, France.
After fortifying our bellies, we took a long walk by the shore. When I say long, my Fitbit tallied more than 12 miles for the day, although some of it was walking to and from the train station in Montpellier.
The views were breathtaking, and although the day was slightly cool and windy, the bike lanes and the pedestrian promenade were busy with people enjoying the fresh sea air and exercise, and of course, baguettes.
We felt very fortunate to be in such a lovely and peaceful place, and as we gazed east across the Mediterranean, we were well aware that on the far side of that shoreline, people are making war on each other.
I also kept thinking of a book I read a few years ago, “The Great Sea: A Human History of the Mediterranean” by David Abulafia. He tells the story of thousands of years of people who have made their lives on these shores. I want to read it again.
Today is a bit rainy, for which I’m grateful, because I definitely need some rest.
