For centuries, English travelers have entered France at the port of Calais. This region – the first in our tour de France -is known as Nord-Pas de Calais, although since 2016 has been part of the new administrative region of Hauts-de-France.
Historically and culturally, this area has been part of the low countries that include Belgium (its neighbor to the west) and The Netherlands. Many of the iconic foods and beverages here are claimed as Belgian or Dutch. Indeed, the stew that is perhaps the most famous dish of the region -Flemish Carbonade or Carbonnade à la flamande, which is first up in our culinary tour – notes its origin in the name.
Due to its strategic location, the region has known war and more war throughout its history. You may have seen the 2017 film Dunkirk or read the book on which it was based. But since those events in World War II, things have settled down and the inhabitants have been left in peace to fish, farm, manufacture autos and sell petrol to chunnel travelers.
We’ll explore the culture, people and attractions in the next post. For now, let’s get to the food.
I wish I could’ve made the famous tarte aux maroilles (or flamiche au maroilles) and washed it down with a beer from the region, but I couldn’t find either from my local purveyors. But I was able to find the infamous mimolette cheese, which is apparently legal in the U.S. again.
And for bread, these little buns called faluche. I altered this recipe slightly by substituting a tiny bit of buckwheat flour for the all-purpose to make it a little less white.
For beer, I skipped across the border for a Belgian red ale.
Our main dish was the iconic stew, and it received such rave reviews that I think I’ll be making it again.
Check out our YouTube channel for a video of this week’s project.
Flemish Carbonade
recipe adapted from Let’s Eat France
- 2.25 lbs beef stew meat, sliced thinly
- 1 tbsp neutral oil (I used safflower)
- 1 tbsp all-purpose flour
- 4 onions, peeled and thinly sliced
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 bunch mixed herbs, finely chopped
- 1 bouquet garni (thyme, bay leaf, parsley, celery stalk)
- 1 slice spiced bread or gingerbread
- 1 tbsp red wine vinegar
- 1 tbsp turbinado sugar
- 1 2/3 cup red ale
- salt and pepper
- boiling water
- 1 tsp capers
Preheat the oven to 300F. Heat the oil in an ovenproof skillet or flameproof casserole, add the beef and brown on both sides, cooking in batches if necessary to avoid overcrowding the pan. Sprinkle with the flour, stir to coat and set aside. Melt the butter in a skillet and cook the onions over low heat for about 10 minutes. In a baking dish, place a layer of the cooked meat, top with a layer of cooked onions, then a layer of herbs, and repeat. Place the bouquet garni on top, crumble the bread over the top, sprinkle with the vinegar and the sugar. Add the red ale, season with salt and pepper, and fill the dish with boiling water to the level of the ingredients. Cover and cook in the oven for 3 to 4 hours. Remove the bouquet garni. Distribute the capers over the top and serve.
