My original deadline for attempting to read Du côté de chez Swannen français has passed. But this is my project and my rules, so I’m extending the deadline for a year. I’m making progress in learning French; I’m currently on a 107-day Duolingo streak. I also practice every time I get a chance to go to my local French conversation group. And I have France24 streaming in the background at home for at least an hour a day so I can absorb the language while multi-tasking.
The time requirement of making a weekly video caused a huge delay on the tour when other work demands, summer distractions and fall travels, pinched my time. Plus, I discovered that film-making can be a fun change of pace, but writing remains my preferred form of communication. As I resume, I hope to continue the videos, with Leah’s help, on a sporadic basis, but the main “tour” will take place here.
Gascony, like most of southwest France, is the land of duck. Among the duck-related menu terms encountered in the southwest are magret de canard (duck breast), confit de canard (usually duck legs cooked in their own fat and preserved in a jar under a layer of that fat), and the most famed of all, foie gras (fattened liver of duck or goose). Duck fat is also liberally used in cooking.
I can personally vouch for the deliciousness of Gascon cuisine. During our visit to the region last year, we enjoyed the best meal of our trip -indeed, one of the best meals of our lives – at Le Cadet de Gascogne in St. Justin. Considering that the three of us had three courses, including wine and aperitifs, for less than $100 total, it was also a fantastic bargain.
Leah’s duck at Le Cadet d Gascogne
To celebrate Gascony at home, I splurged on duck breasts and turned again to Paula Wolfert’s masterpiece, The Cooking of Southwest France: Recipes from France’s Magnificent Rustic Cuisine. The following two recipes are not difficult to prepare; however, you will not find the moutarde violette at your neighborhood grocery. I had despaired of procuring a jar until I found it on Zingerman‘s website – and included in the summer sale! So I bought a case of 6 and now need more recipes using it since I can’t afford duck breasts very often. Fortunately, Paula Wolfert suggests adding it to a salad vinaigrette, another delicious option. I’ve also added it to homemade mayonnaise.
Moutarde violette is an ancient condiment from southwest France that had been nearly forgotten until a French family reintroduced it to the market in 1990. The mustard is enhanced with freshly pressed red or black grapes, a byproduct of wine-making. And it is fabulous with duck, of course!
Duck Breasts with Moutarde Violette
Adapted from The Cooking of Southwest France by Paula Wolfert
2 boneless duck breast halves, 1 to 1 1/4 lbs each
1.5 tablespoons minced shallots
1 tablespoon rendered duck fat
3/4 cup red wine
pinch of fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon moutarde violette
1 tablespoon heavy cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
About 1 hour before serving, use a thin long-bladed knife to shave off the thinnest layer from the skin to remove the little bumps from the duck breast (if your breasts have them — mine didn’t, at least not that I could see), then make very small crosshatch marks at a 45-degree angle all over the skin side. Peel away the tendon underneath and reserve for some other purpose. Wipe the breast dry; sprinkle with salt and pepper.
Heat a large heavy skillet over moderate heat. Add the duck breasts, skin side down, and immediately reduce the heat to moderately low. Sauté the breasts until crisp and brown, about 8 to 10 minutes, tilting the skillet and spooning off the fat 3 or 4 times. Flip the duck breasts over, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and finish cooking for 3 to 5 minutes to brown the flesh side and crisp the skin. With your thumb and middle finger, pinch the meat under the skin side to test for doneness. If it springs back quickly, the meat is rare; if there is some give, it is medium. Remove to a caring board, and let it rest for at least 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, add the shallots and duck fat to the skillet and cook over moderately low heat, stirring, about 2 minutes. Add the wine and herbs to the skillet and heat until reduced by half. Turn off the heat and stir in the mustard and heavy cream. Adjust the seasoning.
Thinly slice the meat crosswise on the diagonal and arrange overlapping on a serving platter. Spoon the sauce over the slices and serve immediately.
Cèpes in the Style of Gascony
1 ounce dried French cèpes or Italian porcini
1/2 cup French olive oil or a light Italian olive oil
1 teaspoon finely chopped fresh garlic
2 tablespoons prosciutto
1 pound fresh button mushrooms, quartered or sliced
salt and freshly ground pepper
1.5 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
Soak the dried mushrooms in 2 cups lukewarm water for 30 minutes. Drain by lifting them out of the liquid. Rinse under cool running water and drain well by pressing on them lightly. Ladle the soaking liquid through a paper coffee or several layers of cheesecloth.
In a large nonreactive skillet, heat the olive oil over high heat. Add the drained mushrooms, then reduce the heat to moderately high. Add the garlic and prosciutto; cook, stirring, for 2 to 3 minutes, until the garlic begins to color slightly. Immediately add all the strained soaking liquid and bring to a boil. Slowly cook down to a glaze, about 15 minutes.
Add the fresh mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with the lemon juice. Sauté, tossing over moderately high heat, until all the moisture in the pan has evaporated, about 7 minutes. Serve hot with a sprinkling of parsley.
